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A Chair at the Table of my Better Self

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A Chair at the Table of my Better Self

I gingerly place my feet on the ground and shift my weight onto my right leg.  A polite ache flares across the outside arch—an amiable three out of ten this morning, and that’s without chemical diplomacy. Earlier this week that same spot was a constant sulking six or seven, even under a gram of naproxen.

“Earlier this week” is when I had just wrapped up a forty-three-mile, all-night wander through the Superstition Mountains - just one line in a two-week, 500-mile poem strung along the Arizona Trail. Why? First, because I love hiking and being outside. Second, because I was trying to break the speed record for the fastest unsupported completion of the entire 800 mile Arizona Trail. 

I’m no stranger to endurance efforts. I’ve set speed records around the Annapurna Circuit, on Aconcagua, and in the Grand Canyon, amongst other places. In 2024 I became the first woman to complete the 1000 Mile Iditarod Trail Invitational in Alaska on cross-country skis. I spent the better part of a decade earning my chops as an ultra runner with 100 miles finishes at races like Western States and the Ouray 100, and I earn my living as a mountaineering and backpacking guide living in close proximity to the Arizona Trail’s northern terminus.  So it seemed only natural for me that I’d want to try my hand at a speed record on the trail, and, in fact, this wasn’t my first rodeo: I’ve tried twice before. 

My first attempt, in the fall of 2023, was a supported effort — I had crew, pacers, no need to carry anything other than a light layer and some snacks and water, and I was trying to go FAST; 50-miles-a-day type of fast.  That worked for a couple of days, until it didn’t: I sustained a stress fracture on Day 4, and eventually admitted defeat and stopped running (or rather, hobbling) on Day 7 after 309 miles. 

My second attempt came in the fall of 2024; this time I was emboldened by my success on the Iditarod Trail and inspired by legendary speed hiker Heather Anderson (Anish) who had just nabbed the outright unsupported record at 24 days 1 hour and 12 minutes, so I decided to try the unsupported style.  That meant I would carry all my food and gear for the entire length of the trail: 800 miles with no resupplies, save for water refills from natural sources and public spigots. Anish’s record translates to right around 33 miles per day; I was optimistic that I could develop a strategy to cover more ground each day than that, even loaded with gear and food for 800 miles. 

How did that attempt go? My pace and fuel strategy were on par, but my head wasn’t in it - at all.  When I saw the lights of Flagstaff after 200+ miles and a cold, dark, lonely week on the trail, the only thing I wanted to do was go home; so that’s what I did. (You can read more about that decision here). 

I wasn’t sure at the time if I’d ever want to try again, but weeks passed, my fortieth birthday drew closer, and the trail’s siren call kept slipping into conversations that I had with myself.  So I decided to make time for a third attempt as a birthday present: spring instead of fall, warm sun instead of frost, longer daylight, less premeditated storytelling around it all. Yet even as I carefully packed my gear and once again prepared food for 800 miles, I couldn’t tell whether I was chasing closure or genuine desire.

But for fifteen days and nights the trail and I traveled well together. My kit weight shrank with every meal, my pace held steady, and, most precious: I felt unrushed and present. My solar panel went on strike within the first few days which quickly meant no earbuds, no podcasts, no music. Instead, time in my head and with memories that I rarely get to see, with my dead parents and the long-lost peace of loving childhood moments, set to the backdrop of birdcall, footsteps and the whisper of the wind. Somewhere south of Pine, though, a few unseasonably rainy days translated into damp and dirty socks which, paired with a long and rocky downhill, brewed mild trench foot and eventually a deep blister that then turned ugly. By the time infection started whispering threats, I tried everything I could - from rest to minor surgery to medication - but I finally had to bow my head and hiked out, catching the ride home I’d hoped not to need.

Which brings me back to this morning’s tentative step on my healing injury: a reminder and a souvenir. 

I returned home with a surprise gift wrapped inside the low-grade disappointment having learned, beyond doubt, that I wanted to be out there and that I still can and want to do hard things. I was strong, I was moving well, but more importantly I was at peace and where I was supposed to be—fully present in a way that I find hard to hold on to in daily life. The Arizona Trail welcomed me with open arms this time, offering a chair at the table of my better self. I hiked for days without being distracted by my phone or songs or podcasts, and I felt myself returning closer to the best version of myself with every mile I walked.  

My biggest regret is not that I didn’t manage to break the speed record or even complete the trail. Instead, it’s that a seemingly small carelessness - dirty socks in warm wet weather with big downhill miles - spiraled into a soft tissue injury that cut short my immersion in that sweet bliss of presence and alignment that the trail gave me for my birthday. 

Here’s the irony: three exits in three tries, yet I believe more than ever that I can break the unsupported record, all while realizing fully well that confidence without evidence grows thinner with repetition - and so does my credibility.  

But the speed record also isn’t really what I am after; it’s the mindful presence and alignment that I mentioned earlier. Why try for a speed record at all then? Because what I really crave is that sanctity of the convergence of effort, uncertainty, and accountability where the mind goes quiet. A speed attempt is simply the most direct doorway I’ve found.

So: has the Arizona Trail already given me everything I came for, or do I have unfinished business?

All I can say is ‘Yes’.

With big adventures like this one on the Arizona Trail, I am raising funds to help create transformative outdoor opportunities for women and girls and support get OTHER women into the outdoors. If you enjoyed reading this article, please make a donation here.

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We're expecting...

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We're expecting...

… big adventure in our future. I’m excited to say that Paul and I have some news to share today!

I’ve been quiet here on the blog over the last two months, and there’s a reason for it. Besides pursuing personal running and climbing projects, spending the better part of January & February in Argentina guiding two successful trips for AWExpeditions and working feverishly to expand AWE’s Summit Scholarship program, Paul and I have also been preparing for a big change to our personal lives.

Without further ado - here’s the meat of it.

 
 

After almost eighteen months of nomad vanlife adventures, Paul and I are starting a new chapter as the new owners of Dreamland Safari Tours in Kanab, Utah. The ink is is barely dry (we signed the purchase agreement on Friday) but we have been working on this deal for almost three months now and are incredibly excited about our new home base out in the middle of the most beautiful desert locations that the Southwest has to offer. Kanab is smack in between Zion, Bryce, and the Grand Canyon - no more than 90 minutes driving from each - and it’s a lot less crowded than Moab or Springdale. With Dreamland, we now manage a fleet of ten Suburban 4x4s and work with a staff of more than half a dozen awesome desert guides who know famous Kanab-area destinations like the Wave like the back of their hands, but also love to take you far off the beaten path to locals-only spots. Come visit and let us take you on an adventure!

You’ll be seeing a lot more desert photos & videos from me going forward, but this new business doesn’t mean that we’re settling down; it just means that we have a permanent address and a place to live again. Paul and I still have a big craving for adventure, and I will not just continue to pursue FKTs and mountain sufferfests but also guide high-altitude climbs for AWExpeditions as it were.

In the meantime, I am incredibly excited to have a place as beautiful as Kanab as my new playground (did I mention that there’s world-class single track desert running less than two blocks from our new front door?) and I very much hope to see many of you here. Check out the gallery below to get an idea of some of the places that we can take our guests to - and that’s just the beginning. Paul and I have a lot of plans for longer guided trips that’ll include more backpacking, canyoneering, climbing and trail running. Make sure to follow Dreamland on Instagram @dreamlandsafari or like us on Facebook to stay up-to-date!


 

Follow Dreamland on Instagram at @dreamlandsafari for a regular dose of desert dreaming.

 

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Where man himself does not remain

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Where man himself does not remain

A conjugal scramble in the Flatirons above Boulder

The sound of an ambulance washes up from the plains far below.  From up here at 6600ft, in velvet early dark below the summit, Boulder’s lights and the humming noise of civilization are a short half mile away; the tumultuous ocean of humanity washing over rocky mountain shores. 

I love the mountains; Colorado is good for that. I am charmed by Boulder’s easy access to the wild, yet I yearn for more. More wild, more free, more silent solitude: unadulterated untouched country. I drift off into memories of space. 

Two months ago I found that untouched space.  I walked for weeks, four weeks and four days to be exact, from one side of Utah to the other.  I walked through desert canyons and high mountains, sand and water, I waded and I bushwhacked and I climbed and fell and scrambled.  I walked across the Colorado Plateau, right through the heart of one of the most remote desert backcountry out there: Grand Staircase Escalante. An untouched roadless area so vast I didn’t see another human soul for days, where I could walk for weeks without ever setting foot on asphalt. A dream for some, nightmarish desolation for others: true wilderness.  

Day 3 of 32 on the 812-mile Hayduke Trail, heading into the unknown

I grew up in Germany, just one among eleven million German children with their seventy-one million parents and grandparents and grownup aunts and uncles all crammed into an area not even quite as big as California. Germany is exemplary: so safe, so clean, so civil. Every last little spec of usable land has been improved upon, to build neat towns and well-run farms and autobahns and big grand metropoles and tightly-managed forests.  Germany’s rise from the ashes after World War II is the stuff of textbooks; chaos and destruction turned systematically to meteoric order and success.  A triumphant return to civilization, and in its march there is but one thing that got overlooked: the necessity of wilderness. 

That’s why I so value the existence of unspoiled wildness. Because I remember what it feels like, having none of it.  I remember being a kid in Germany, standing in our back yard, looking out across the fields.  I remember feeling the urge to explore and to get lost, and I remember how disappointingly the world closed in on me once I was old enough to walk the talk, to head off on my own to see my little German world: there was no exploration to be had. The fenced-in backyard of my childhood was bordered by a field was bordered by a road and three more fields and the two local farms and fences and more farms and roads and fields and towns. You see, less than 1% of the land in Germany is undeveloped; there was no wilderness. 

Deep, dark, unspoiled wild

That’s why I was so captivated when I first saw the American West’s great public lands at age 12. I remember that first time I tasted the desert, feeling small and feeling wild. It’s a feeling that has stayed with me since.  It’s the feeling I set out to live fully and taste deeply when I started my long solitary walk across the Utah desert along the Hayduke Trail. 

The fence line on the left marks the boundary of Arches National Park 

I set out north of Moab at the northern edge of Arches, enveloped in the darkness of a moonless night. The first few miles of my month-long journey take me through protected lands inside the iconic national park.  Soon I find myself traversing along the very edge of the national park boundary, and this is what I find: on the inside of the fence, cryptobiotic soil, deep and undisturbed; on the outside of the fence, inches from the boundary, dirt roads and natural gas pipeline infrastructure. Stark contrasts and a powerful reminder of the importance of protection.  

Weeks later I walk through the roadless heart of Grand Staircase Escalante: a 1.9 million acre landscape so complicated and fantastic in its revelation of progressive sandstone layers that 'Staircase' had to be its name.  Days go by without me seeing another soul; I feel more alive and human to the core than I have in years.  Living among wilderness brings out human essence; there is a primal peace to existing simply, a natural rhythm of living with the land. Being small and part of nature drives home life’s beautiful simplicity. 

I spend hard long days on the Kaiparowits Plateau, crossing through its hellish heat and desolation. “It is a fierce and dangerous place, and it is wilderness right down to its burning core.” I didn’t know these words before I headed off into Kaiparowits, but having come out the other side I know first-hand how true they are. 

Surface coal on the Kaiparowits plateau

It is here on the Kaiparowits that I first walk alongside surface layer coal beds. It is here I realize that I have no excuse to not speak up for public lands. The Kaiparowits drives home for me what wilderness entails: existential clarity, unforgiving solitude and irrevocable experience. Development is just the same but on the flip side of the coin: unforgiving, irrevocable. Once development starts up there is no going back; once wilderness is lost, it’s lost for good.  

There’s a funny thing or two about how natural treasure works.  

Size matters. Three individual parcels of wilderness don’t carry the same value as a single area three times the size of one.  Contiguous wild spaces are the most powerful form of preservation, for wildlife habitats and historic study just as well as for adventure and explorers. 

Pure existence matters. We don’t have to actually be out there hiking and exploring; simple knowledge of wilderness’ existence changes our understanding of ourselves, our past and our future.  We don’t have to constantly - or ever! - venture off into the wild to feel its value; simply knowing that it’s there, that we CAN get lost if we just wanted to, and that our children have that very option, changes our lives. 

Do you remember the feeling you had when you got the keys to your first car: all a sudden, the possibilities are endless; you could drive over to your friend’s house, or even all the way across the country! Did you actually drive all the way across the country? Your answer doesn’t change the power of the notion. 

The car... wreck? 

Another ambulance starts blaring. I am far above the lights of Boulder still, abruptly taken from my desert dreams.  My Hayduke hike was a dream. This, here, is life; it’s real.  And for now it’s time for me to sink back into the depths of the turbid ocean of humanity.

For now, wilderness is far away yet still in reach.  Out west, just on the far side of the Rocky Mountains, there still are those places that are vast and wild and free.  Grand Staircase is still wild; Bears Ears is still on the brink of monument protection. For how much longer… we don’t know.  
Go visit your wild lands while they are wild, go see the marvels that may soon be paved and mined; and if you believe in the value of knowing wilderness is out there, for yourself and for your children: speak up, post and tweet, and let Trump know that public lands deserve protection. 

Spotted in Moab, Day 1 of 32 on the 812 mile Hayduke trail

As I head down the well-built trail towards Chautauqua Park, Congress’ definition of wilderness reverberates within me: “An area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” How I long already to return to those areas where I may not remain. 


'Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread. A civilization which destroys what little remains of the wild, the spare, the original, is cutting itself off from its origins and betraying the principle of civilization itself.' [Edward Abbey]

Existential clarity, unforgiving solitude; irrevocable experience.

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Kili #adventuremom (Gallery)

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Kili #adventuremom (Gallery)

Ever thought about going on a crazy adventure with your mom/dad/son/daughter?  There are plenty of horror stories about what can go wrong when you take non-outdoorsy loved ones into the mountains. Ignoring the stories, my mom (65) and I (31) decided to climb Kilimanjaro together - and we had a blast. Just take a look through the gallery below :)

PS... case in point: our trip leader Gavin, who runs the Colorado-based guide service Summit Xperience, brought along his fourteen year old son Max who also did wonderfully well.  
How many Kili summit teams can boast an age spread of 51 years!


Thinking about your own Kilimanjaro climb?  
There are many possible routes and many different outfitters. 
Be aware that any climb of less than 6-7 days is highly likely to produce altitude sickness - fast ascent attempts are the reason that the summit success rate on Kili is only ~40%, even though mountain is easy from a technical perspective.  The Machame route, best done in seven days, covers ~78 kilometers and is considered the most scenic way up the mountain. 

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